My hope in sharing these pictures with you is that they trigger your creative juices when you tackle the design/modification of your MC trailer. If you still have questions after reviewing this, drop me a line.

The pictures below (taken in September 1997) are of the MC trailer frame I built in March of 1993. It has withstood a number of trips from Dallas to Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. Its home is on our club's boat yard where we have a hoist to lift boats from trailers and lower them in the water.

Here are some of the criteria I set for this design:

• Top surface of trailer must be higher than wheel fenders;
• Bottom must have protection from road debris;
• Trailer lights and license plate to be up-high for best visibility to other drivers;
• Simple attachment for bolsters and mast/boom support;
• Reasonable cost.

All wood, including the bottom plywood cover, is pressure treated ("Wolmanized"). For additional protection, I doused all surfaces with Thompson's Water Seal. Last Fall I repeated this treatment. All bolts and screws were galvanized. All wooden edges were routed and lightly sanded to minimize splinters.

One side-benefit of the bottom plywood cover is that when trailer-launching, one can walk on it without getting shins all cut up.

I bought the trailer at a sports store for about $400. Wood and other parts probably added another $100 to the total cost. The trailer came with 8" wheels but I upgraded those to 12" ones purchased at Wal-Mart (~$40 each). If you plan to make long trips, have your wheels speed-balanced at your favorite tire place -- well worth the money!

			Total view with boat

Full view with boat

		Front bolster and bunk detail Bunk consists of a 2 x 8 x 80 inch board sitting on top of a 2 x 6 x 80 inch board. (Place boards back-to-back or front-to-front to counteract warping effect over time.) The center-to-center distance between the 1/2 inch all-treads on a board is 75 inches. Front all-treads are 29 inches tall, the rear ones are 31 inches long. I slipped a section of PVC pipe over them for protecting hands and clothing (dark-grey in front, white in back.)

Front bolster and bunk 'Feet' on bolster made from 2 x 4 x 9 inch legs attached to a 2 x 4 x 12 inch foot. Bunks are covered with a double layer of outdoor carpet (used staples to attach.) To keep water from soaking into hull, I covered carpet with plastic door mat bought at Wal-Mart and split length wise. The surface of this mat looks like Astroturf and has small (1/2") little 'flowers' standing on it that keep water away from the hull.

			Front bunk support

Sideview of trailer - center section. Center to center distance between bunks is 81.5 inches. Horizontal distance from center of front bunk to wheel center (axle) is 46.5 inches. Horizontal distance from center of front bunk to center of ball on hitch is 124 inches. Horizontal distance from center of rear bunk to wheel center is 35 inches.

			Sideview of entire trailer. Mast will sit about 4 inches forward of the front bunk, the side-stays fall just behind it. Edge of bow to center of ball on hitch is 68 inches. Note sloped front wooden board. Angle allows nose to slide up when trailer retrieving/launching. Tongue weight with fully loaded trailer is 90 lbs.

Rear lights and all-thread License plate is attached below light (not visible in this picture.) Note the flat 4-pin plug next to the PVC-pipe covered all-thread. I rewired the frame and brought all four wires to a plug on the left side of the trailer. The bolster has a mating plug to carry power to each of the two tail/turning lights.

			Rear bolster Mast support is 7 inches long and counter-sunk 1 1/2 inches into rear bunk. Width is 5.5 inches (2 x 6 inch board.)