I think a good rule of thumb is 8 feet per purchase, + 5 so you can trim it while hiking downwind. I have a 5:1 and use 45 feet, a 4:1 can use 37, etc. What you don't want is the end of the line at the mainsheet block when its out all the way. Also, its nice to have some extra line so you can trim straight from the boom when heeling to weather.
What I do once a year is remove the gunk that may have built up. I use "On/Off" fiberglass cleaner by Marikate. It is an acid that strips the surface gunk off without harming the fiberglass. Try "West Marine" website to find a store near you. They have products listed for sale. They have a water spot remover by WM chemicals. Next, apply a good Teflon product either by hand or by power tool; I use Starbright. This will keep the bottom clean and very slick for most of the season. After this treatment, MAKE SURE you tie down the boat in several places when launching or pulling out.
The two boards and lowering part of the rudder were [anodized] in Summerville at a cost of $181. I did sand them before coating because the coating will only leave them as smooth as before the coating. If this doesn't protect them from salt water I will then epoxy coat them.
Rick Trester, Tech Committee Chairman -- 8 and 11 May 2000
Make sure that you have not hardcoat anodized your boards. The hardcoat version is illegal. Epoxy coating of the boards and rudder is also illegal. There is also a company that will anodize boards and rudder in Milwaukee for about $220.00. I found that the anodized finish was not as smooth as 600 grit sanding. The anodizing on our masts would be legal on the boards and rudder. Hard-coating is harder and smoother. Harken used hard-coating on some of their big boat fittings. The E and A scows use hard-coating on their boards
I see references of starting singlehanded and then adding crew as the wind builds. This raises 2 questions on this topic:
- Do the MC rules allow adding and dropping crew at will?
- I weigh about 160 ... at what wind velocity should I be prepared to add crew to stay as competitive as possible?
Question #2 - this is a tricky question. I go 225 lbs, so I don't need a crew. I decided to get into this class so I would'nt have to worry about that issue, and I resolved myself to learn how to sail in a blow. I actually enjoy the big breeze; the boat speed is exhilarating!. As far as competitiveness; with your weight a 70-140 lb person would be the range. With a crew you will have the ability to sail the scow more comfortably. Also, you can be "powered up" most of the time. The time for a crew is when you become overpowered and are depowering the boat to a large degree. If you find that you are beginning to fullly crank on the cunningham, vang, and dropping the traveler 5 inches, then it's time for a crew. My quess is about 14-15 knots of steady breeze is when you should had a crew. Others will begin to depower while you can stay powered up. The tradeoff is being slower down wind. One observation: at the North Americans this year singlehanders were actually faster upwind than most doubles. The key is a good depowering system. Make sure your vang system is running smooth and with the correct amount of leverage. Try sailing alone, you'll love it!!
My current docking arrangement requires me to paddle out and then raise the mainsail. So far, I have figured out that lowering the boom support is important so that the tiller is free to weather helm. I am still playing with the boards, one, both or none. Anyone with similar experience?
We have to hoist and drop away from the dock as well. We don't use the boom crutch so the tiller can move to both sides. We also drop both boards so there's lift on both tacks and the boat can come up into the wind when you're not at the helm. It has to be done quickly in a breeze. Sometimes you have to go back and head into the wind when dropping, as the boat will want to spin and sail down with the weight on the bow. It is tricky, but it can be done
19 December 2002 – With two seasons under my belt, I’m much more comfortable with this maneuver. Before leaving the dock, I unroll the sail and fold on the boom, attach the halyard to the mainsail and make one loose sail tie. Paddle out with one board down.
With no sail up, the boat will want to bear off downwind as soon as I go forward to the mast. The key to success is keeping the boat from swinging downwind before getting some sail up. I point the boat on a close-hauled tack, whichever tack takes me away from shore, and then drop the other board. I lay the boom on the deck just to windward of the tiller. This holds the tiller center (against the boom) while I walk up the leeward side of the boat. This slows the bearing off until I get some sail up, at which time the boat will round up because the tiller is free to leeward.
Can someone tell me how far forward (to the forward edge of the board box under the hull) the leading edge of the boards typically are on an MC? On my boat, with the board tangs almost flush with the top of the deck, the leading edge of the boards are about 2+ inches behind the front edge of the board box. Should they be more forward than this?
For what it's worth, and coming from a rookie, it seems that board position has a great deal to due with balance on the helm as well as the boat's ability to point. I'm still experimenting but neutral helm seems faster than a firm weather helm and lifting the board helps me more in the big gusts than easing the traveler...Chuck
I'm still a novice with the MC, but having two #1451 and #1945, Andy's boat at the Nationals last year, I can say that for maximum lift and pointing, a vertical forward edge seems to work. As far as the mechanics are concerned, the boards rotate around stainless spacers that keep the pivot bolts from crunching the board boxes. While the spacers don't wear, the holes in the boards do, creating some slop in the system. An oversize spacer would fix the slop, as well as welding a piece on the board to make the hole smaller, but even on the newer boat, there is slop, so I suspect it isn't a very critical fit.
The best position is vertical. That means the leading edge should be vertical or perpendicular to the plane of the boat. Thus the lowest part of the board will be at maximum depth. Moving away from this will only reduce lift. Something that some sailors may want in a blow. This is achieved by having the tang about flush with the deck to 1 inch above it. Look at it from a pivot standpoint and find maximum depth then set the boards there. Do not go below the deck or you risk getting the tang caught between the deck mold and the box. Something I've seen at the Nationals.
I have an older Johnson MC (mid 800's) and I need to replace my mast. I ordered a mast from Melges and a new deck step (my old Johnson deck step would not work for a Melges base). I did not realize that Johnson and Melges masts may be different, even though I did a fair amount of research on parts. So I am looking for info to hopefully assure me that I did an ok thing.
Melges now makes them for the combination of a Johnson (male) mast step and (female) mast base. What you need is the Johnson style (female) mast base for your new Melges mast. Melges started making these for this situation. One note: some machining is necessary to make the new Melges mast base fit an original Johnson mast section. The Johnson wide mast base on the hull is better for distributing the mast load. I would not replace it.
The wood tiller on my JBW MC #1221 is cracked where the wood separates to allow the aluminum support fitting with the through bolt to be fitted. How do you get off the aluminum support; is it possible to remove it without drilling the holes?
The pins in the side plates are pressed on. You can pound them out with a punch and a hammer. Drill the holes out to .250" and thru-bolt and nylock nut. When it is time to refinish the tiller it is really easy to get the cheek assembly apart. If you need replacements you can contact White Bear Boat Works in White Bear Lake MN.
Here are the gel-coat codes for the Melges MCs. Also, there is a company in Florida that is authorized to ship gel-coat (we are not). That company is Minicraft and the phone number is 800-282-8244.
White is a Neste Ashland product code number WG20990
Grey is a Neste Ashland product code number AE21295
I purchased a North Sail Masters 2 years ago. I have used it most week ends for that 2 years. It is still stiff with some wear. Again, how long is a sail competitive?
Dan writes: "I have been sailing over 60 races per season for the past 5 years.I would say after 50-60 races that the sail has lost it's competitive high-end edge. This is not to say that the sail is trash. They can still be used for another 60 races or so before they are blown. Good indicators are: middle sail area near the top batten is weak or inverts to windward in a breeze. Another is when leech begins hooking inward to weather. I buy a new sail every year to keep the edge and use last years for club racing or sell to other club racers. I still have a 95 thats competitive for club racing. I recommend a "heavy" air sail for the bigger breezes (14 & up). They are built for them, very competitive, and last a long time; you'll also save wear on the light air sails. Hope this helps."
Ken adds: " You are probably going to get many different answers to your question. I personally feel that until you have problems pointing, accelerating after a tack, or staight-line boatspeed you don't get any benefits out of having a new sail. Unless your up there with Greg Gust, Andy Burdick, or Scott Slocum I don't feel you gain much. I finished first junior and 16th amateur in the 95 nationals with a 3 year old sail. I still use it for club races today."
I recently purchased an MC and have been tuning it based on what I have been reading, and also from what I have learned in talking to other MC people. I believe I have it tuned correctly (i.e. mast rake, shroud tension, etc.) After having done all this, the other day, while I was sailing and close hauled in a stiff breeze, I noticed that my forestay would go slack periodically....then it would tighten up. The windward shroud was of course always taut. It almost was if my mast bend was inverted, but I cannot be sure. Can someone tell me if this is normal? My boat is a Johnson boat, and the spreaders are "pinned" in the further aft position, so they are swept back as far as they can go.
Inverted mast up wind is not a good thing!
The sweep back on the spreaders should be no more than 5 1/2 inches. That is measured by placing a straight edge across the spreader tips and measuring the distance from that to the mast. More than 5 1/2 inches will flatten the sail, less will create a fuller sail. The older boats had a position that went way back. This was fast only for a blow. Check this out and move it to the forward holes. You will improve your sailing / pointing by checking this measurement first.
Shroud tension. This has created a lot of mystery among sailors. They should be taut as Andy Burdick would say. One way to tell is you should be able to create a one inch circle by moving the stay around by hand. Less than that and they may be too taut. Ive seen people do well with bone tight rigs and with sloppy rigs. Don't get too wrapped up in this measurement. If you are close to the one inch circle, that will work for all conditions. You can play it from there.
Any discussion on compasses used on the MC. I'm new to the Class and wondered what was most popular (or any other ideas).
Dan Fink writes: "Electronic compasses (such as Tick Tac) are currently NOT allowed by events sponsored by the Nationals (IMCCSRA). These include the Nationals, Midwinters, Masters, BlueChip, and Jr. Nationals. They currently ARE allowed to be used in the ILYA sponsored events of the :Inland Championship and MC Invite regattas. Non-electronic are allowed for both."
Herman writes: "Ed, the compass seen on a number of MCs that race on Lake Ray Hubbard is the Nexus S103R Laser compass (Dave adds: I think I found this compass at: http://www.silva.se/marine/ click on Compass, then Sail Racing. The 73R looks interesting as well..) I ignore the lubber lines because they are set for the Laser's 80 degree tacking angle instead of the 90 to 120 degrees for the MC. This is not a problem because the center line is easily visible from a hiked-out position with little or no parallax error.
I particularly like the 20 point system used by Nexus where they divide 360 degrees into 20 major marks. This makes it easy to remember run directions because it is 10 more or less than the beat direction. The top surface of the card has the normal 360 degree markings to allow a quick correlation check when there is a course change during the race.
Headers and lifts are easily determined because they are 2 1/2 divisions on either side of the number that is the heading between the leeward and windward marks of the course. In light air this number can easily increase to 3 1/2 major marks on either side of the main heading.
In summary, you need only remember one number with this compass and that makes life a little easier.
Tom stated: "It seems that the few people I spoke with all recommended Ritchie Tactician compasses. I personally do not have a compass on my boat."
Dave adds: " I bought the Ritchie Tactician Compass. I had a very hard time finding on Ritchie's website, but I found it at West Marine's site: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=10299&outlet=
Does any one have any good ideas on replacing my old broken rubrail ? Melges only sells the new rail for the front of newer boats but the entire rail needs replacing on mine. Thanks for any help on #650.
Drew write: " I also replaced a metal rubrail with the plastic on MC #937 years ago. One thing to consider is that the metal is designed for the overhanging deck flange that extends down the outside of the hull, the plastic is not. It's not a major ordeal, but you will probably find that the overhang varies in height around the boat, and will need to cut it to a consistent height around the boat to allow the plastic rail to rest at a consistent level in relation to the deck. Good luck."
Rick adds: "I have replaced the aluminum rubrail with the newer plastic style on an old Melges X boat. I had to glass up the old holes, redrill and bolt the new rubrail in place. It was a 'pain in the butt' job, but it turned out looking great. If Melges doesn't want to sell the rubrail White Bear Boat works might. www.whitebearboatworks.com."
I need to replace the lines on my Melges MC 1172. Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand/type of line I should use without breaking the bank? Also, I could use some tips or a procedure for actually replacing the lines?
I recently replaced the lines on my '96 Melges. I talked with Gary at Melges and he sent the correct length line for my boat. It costs more, but it saved the guess work. The type of line I used was Marlow.
Also, my process for replacing the sail control lines was to whip the new line to the old and simply pull it through. Whipping took a little extra time, but it asured that the lines did not come apart while going through the blocks.
Johnson Boat Works The 'Fix-it Corner' has some information on line lengths for the mainsheet, but does not have any other information. I have looked at the catalogs and found that the rope (or cordage) varies in cost, weight and strength. Does anyone have recommendations on the rope to use for the various control lines, halyards and painters that are specific to Johnson and Melges boats? I would think that a table could be created for both type boats. For example, JBW 1989, halyard = Marlow, 1/4", 35', cunningham = Marlow, 1/8", 25', etc. If no, then as I replace lines, I will measure and supply it to the website. A good recommendation could be to go to Melges to get the exact lengths precut and ready to go, though I don't know if they support the older Johnson boats.
Tom Stitgen responds: " I just finished replacing all of my control lines on my '91 Johnson. For everything but the main sheet I used 1/4" low stretch line. For the main, the old sheet is a 3/8" 36' fuzzy line, which I have a stop knot about 1 1/2 feet from the end. This allows me to grab it easily if I should lose it and also keeps me from getting too greedy going downwind when its blowing (Note: MC's do deathroll! I also put more flotation in). I'm going to keep this line for windy days. I replaced it with 5/16" 40' low stretch line reasoning that I want the option of easing the main more when it's light and a thinner line will go through the blocks better."
Tom Igielski adds: "I recently replaced all the lines on my 1988 Johnson, and here what I used:
- Mainsheet: 35', 3/8" Sampson Trophy Braid. This has the "fuzzy" texture which makes it easier to hold for long periods of time. I received the boat (used) with 1/2", and that was too big. I run a 4:1 purchase on my main
- Cunningham, Outhaul and Vang are all 3/16" Marlow Excel Racing lines. They all have a spectra core.
3/16" moves very well through the pulleys, but is a little hard on the hands (need gloves.) Lengths
are as follows:
- Cunningham 27'
- Outhaul 40', and
- Vang 33'.
Here are pictures showing the finished product on Tom's JBW 1207: (click on image to see full size):
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